LLwyngwril
After some consideration and discussion with local climbers bolting of new routes began this summer ( 2009 ) at Llwyngwril Allens Sunbeach . The cliffs are of course tidal so great care should be taken with timetables : generally most walls are accessible 2 hours either side high tide on the north shore and 1 hour either side on the south shore . Despite the careful placing of ( mainly ) resin bolts these are sea cliffs and subject to wild weather , high seas and battered rock ....expect a small hold or two to modify under your grip .
Allens Sunbeach North
Local Gary Morgan was the first to spot the potential of the cliffs on the north shore and enlisted other local TT who together ,with support from the North Wales bolt fund , started the new routes this summer .
Access : as you leave the Village of LLwynwril heading north there is a layby on the left by a wooden gate with " no access " painted on it : from the north the layby is spotted on the right just at the entrance to the village . Walk down and across the level crossing then turn sharp right and cross a small field to the sea and an easy descent .
Cliff one : A single bolt lower off sits at the top of the face and to date has only been used for top roping .
Cliff two : a short fun wall with a single bolt to a single bolt LO : done as a high ball boulder problem then the bolt was added : direct is 6b+ , pass the bolt from the right for a 6a + and from the left for the same . Not representative of the walls further along
Cliff three :from right to left
Hang 'em high 6a the pull onto a ledge and the short groove above :the next line of rising bolts is a 6c+. Next left is the excellent perplexing groove at 7a , then the short slab before stepping right to the shared lower off : This slab was given 6a+ but subsequent repeats have settled at 6b, may be called Jesse JAmes .More lines will be done on this short wall .
Cliff Four : all names as below on the topo: from right to left the lines are 7a , 7a , 6c and V+. Highly recommended !
Cliff Five : only one route so far " The Dark Side of the Moose " 6c ( named after my favourite locally brewed ale)
loads of potential further left again .
Allens Sunbeach south.
It is possible to drive into the caravan park just south of LLwyngwril and park by the shore but the site closes its gate at 6 pm : a better option is to pull into the layby another 100 metres further on the road to Tywyn : plenty of parking : enter the caravan site across the level crossing taking usual care and walk down to the shore . The south cliffs and bouldering is 300 metres south along the beach .
Bay one has three routes from left to right , a clean steep slab at 6b " Delicatessan ", another longer slab( at 9 metres ! ) at 6a+ and a 6c ( " Entropy " ) up the black wall ( traversing in from the right to bolt one if too wet to start direct )
Bay two has 2 routes , Black Arabesque at 7a+ up the black wall and the groove to the right at 6a+( " Under an Alien Sun " ) .
There are a good number of trad lines here on the vertical cracks and slabs : I have uploaded the details onto ukclimbing.com under Allens's Sunbeach but will also update here in the new future : on December 28 2009, Goi Ashmore added Incunabula E1 5c at the left side back of Bay 3 , a good fight up a 9 meter well protected crack : the same day the left facing corner on the slabs to the right side of Bay 3 went at Severe ( " The Third Degree " ) on a day when the water on the crags was just beginnning to freeze
Some scope remains for more bolted lines on the south beach and the vast potential of the north beach has only just been skimmed with the 11 bolted lines there .
