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contactlink terry@midwalesclimbing.com
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Ioan Doyle on sight first ascent on Elin E5 6b on Clogwyn Garw, Cwm Teigl, above FFestiniog ( photo Taylor/Davies coll ) .Carreg y Fran can be seen in the background.
Anyone interested in joining/starting a MIDWALES climbers' club can contact dansmonkeytroubles@hotmail.com
The recent midwalesBMC meet near Aberystwyth had a good response from a very keen collection of local activists and there is strong interest in at the very least getting a good base of climbers in the area connected , supported , enthused and informed .
NEW GUIDEBOOKS: The Climbers Club are exploring a new Moelwynnion guide and a new Midwales selected guide . The existing midwales guide will be updated on the Climbers Club with new routes , crags etc ( as on this website ) and the existing guide which is now out of print will be available as a download from the CC. Good phototopos are planned for the Moelwynnion with a modern slimmed down text ( no more " gain the ledge , then make delicate and intricate moves up left to a small niche above which a long reach brings a good hold a fraction closer ").We can all follow black lines on a photo .
There is some debate and doubt on the merits of a dedicated Moelwynnion guide as the area sits in nicely with Midwales climbing and it may be considered extravagent to have a selected Midwales guide and a new Moelwyn guide . The CC are keen for opinions regarding this .The Moelwyn guide will include Moel Siabod , parts of the LLedr valley and outlying areas such as Clogwyn Garw, CArreg y Foel Gron and Carreg y fran as well as the newly bolted area of Chwarae Manod and the revisted Sidings . There has also been a tremendous amount of new bouldering activity although local activists are keen on their own guide for this .
A bolting of belay stations in Barmouth quarry is half completed ; this should be completed in January 2012 enabling climbers to lower off before the final top third of the cliff which is unstable . The lower two thirds is generally on sound rock and in a good suntrap . The routes date mainly from the 1980s and tend to follow strong lines in cracks and grooves but there has been a sort of misplaced ban for 30 years so a bit of gardening has been required . The climbing zone is on National Trust land which is open access but it is still wise to keep a low profile and not upset the locals . The NT policy here frowns on fixed gear despite the presence of pegs and quarrymans' bolts and rods which of course date from before any climbing interest . Lower off stations will resurrect what is a good if limited quarry with lines to 30 metres . A good V5 ( Actio)has now been added to the biggest boulder below the walls .Thanks to Chuck and Mark from Aberdovey for cleaning the big slab.See photogallery 2.New bolted line added 14 january 2012: " How to Read the Air " 6c 25 metres(TT) with a good crux at the start .New trad line also added by Phil ( Chuck ) Stevens 16 january " Tennesse Militia " E1 5c which takes the obvious gap just left of the corner of Broken Arrow.A new 6b+ " The Thirty Year Storm " was added Jan 22 which takes the excellent arete just right of Vapour Phase . Some serious cleaning was completed by Chuck, Peter, MArk and Ian from Aberdovey who have removed 30 years of neglect from the big slabs .And John Codling returned after a 30 year absence !
Friog Blue Lake quarry: on the western ledge of the lake where the zipwire anchor sits there are two new resin-stapled lines almost to the top of the 10 meter wall above the anchors . Grades unknown but angle looks easy.
update January 2012
New RHINOGAU crag PDF
SH 676214
HARLECH CLIMBING WALL : Climbing Wall now open at Harlech . More than 28 routes some with in situ topropes and a good if small and fierce bouldering wall . Less than 5 minutes walk from Harlech train station.
Newgale , Aberystwyth, Clarach and Borth bouldering :
See owen mcshane's excellent website that has planty of topos and videos of this section of the cambrian coast and its vast potential redclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/more-welsh-esoteric-venues.html
http://redclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/more-welsh-esoteric-venues.html
Cregennan lake pdf :
Update sports routes link
TOPO and VIDEO of BOULDERING at CLARACH (near Aberystwyth) here
http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=12636694&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"
Moel Y Gest Quarry Tremadog.Copy and paste the following for the far right slabs
http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=310&ngroup=2
Pennal ;all bolts stripped for the moment.
Plynlimon; great bouldering guide to this remote spot near Aberystwyth. Check the bouldering link above .
Dysynni Valley : Click on the link for an updated word file for the valley
( Bird Rock Valley )link
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