norman clacher on Jesse James 6b Sunbeach LLwyngwril July2010
uPDATED JULY 2010
Rhinogau: 40 new routes so far this year all along the rhinog range :most between 5 and 12 metres so many could be described as bouldering problems rather than routes but when the precedent was set by M.Crocker for new lines on 5 metre walls back in the 1990s the trend has been to descrcibe these as routes . Most are solos due to the lack of any real protection placements on what is usually very compact rock and to date no mats have been used to protect the climbers . It is possible in certain areas to walk along escarpments in bright sunshine just going up and down all day on perfect rock with no need for any cleaning or preinspection and this wilderness remains a perfect haven for those keen on solitude and white sunny high friction grit.
CLARACH
TOPO and VIDEO of BOULDERING at CLARACH (near Aberystwyth) here
Fairbourne : TWO new sport routes this year so far
" Flogging a dead Honkey " : the overhanging gold fluted wall just before the bay of Hang em High will settle somewhere at 6c/7a : standing on a big pebble brings the first jug within reach ! TT repeat and grade confirmed by Goi Ashmore
"Guns and Poses " 9metres 7a+: the last wall on the left now has this rising diagonal from right to left to join the shared lower of Dark side of the moose . Pull onto the wall from the groove and crack to its right then follow the rising handrail to the overlap : Pass the last bolt on its right then a high handrail leads leftwards to the LO : Fierce . Repeat and grade confirmed by Goi Ashmore July 12 2020
Allens's sunbeach : 2 projects under way Three new traditional lines at Sunbeach .Full topo planned : Sunbeach Arch HVS5a is the vertical thin crack on the south side of the arch , Perterritus E1 5c is the deep wide crack in the Bay to the right of Incunabula and Hostile Forces is the grrove and crack right of the 6b bolted groove right of Black Arabesque : more trad lines planned as well as more bolted lines at this small but excellent venue
Sport Routes 2010: we have put in what was a successful bid for rebolting of CLARACH via the north wales bolt fund and the BMC Cymru : a certain sea cliff climber from north wales has vetoed the bid and we await developments : a possible alternative would be the climbing club from the university to buy some bolts : we have two volunteers so far for placing the bolts .
:Moel Y gest quarry Porthmadog: 16 bolted routes to date all of which have been repeated and grades now a consensus : topo to follow but meanwhile there is a limited topo of the right hand slabs on the DMM website her e
http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=310&ngroup=2
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CLARACH If you feel that this cliff is worth rebolting it may help to email the BMC CYMRU with your hopefuly helpful opinion . The rock at Clarach appears to have survived the last 13 years and the routes still look fantastic : The bolts are understandably rusting and the crag would be excellent with marine grade stainless steel resin ring bolts to a double bolt lower off : the plan would be to hopfully extend the routes into the rock bands above . From left to right they are 7a , 7a , 6c+ , 6c , 6a .
New BOULDERING guide to clarach available via email request to me .
SUNBEACH at Llwyngwril / Fairbourne
For all the new bolted routes and updated grade info including 2 new trad routes added 28 december 2009 : see sunbeach link above .
PENNAL IMPORTANT NOTE : PENNAL QUARRY IS COMPLETELY OUT OF BOUNDS UNTIL ACCESS CAN BE NEGOTIATED and all hangers have been removed ( they have found useful new homes ! )
ElFyn Jones of the BMC has met with the farmer and unfortunately access will not be possible for the forseeable future : the hangers are to be removed for the moment
To date 9 bolted routes from 6a+ to 7b+ and one project ( so close ...)
The land owner has been very patient to date but as he points out public liability is a big issue and this must be clarified before anyone accesses the quarry : elfyn Jones the new all -wales BMC access officer has listed this as a priority ( one of many ) so hopefully by the spring this will be sorted . Anyone who tries to approach the quarry will almost certainly create a complete and permanent ban.
Cae du : The last addition was some time ago in 2009 when Tim Banton added a new V7 at Cae du : the left hand start to Cae Du Crack : see pics in bouldering section.
The steep arete in the back of the bay just north of the cave has been completed on its left side at V7 ( the wall up to the big pocket).
Mark Allen waltzed up the arte direct on sight and thought V5 from the bedrock start : the first move involves a very high pinch and a fierce pull using a foothold that is sloping away .
Even better bouldering is being developed nearby when elbows permit and will be published here in the Autumn 2010
.Plynlimon new bouldering routes 2009 . see under Bouldering plynlimon: new topo now ready for this remote and lovely site
Rhinogau: AN UPDATE OF NEW ROUTES 2002 TO 2009 IS NOW AVAILABLE : SEE THE RHINOGAU PAGE
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Dysynni Valley ( Bird Rock Valley )
This beautiful valleyhas more to offer than the40 meter routes on the Bastion on Bird Rock .
There are now seven new craglets on the hillsidesmostly on the sunny northern side of the valley.The numerous routes range form Difficult to E4, the longest being 15 metrs . On the slopes of the hills opposite Bird Rock are some smalloutcropsthat all face southand are protected from northerly winds .
Llanllwydacampsite .
Behind this site there are 2 crags , one near the summit of the hill and the other just down and right above the forest. The right hand crag has an upper and a lower section . At present the lower section hasone12 meter HVS up the obvious groove but the bulging impressive wall just left is unclimbed .
The main upper sectionhas a thrilling short crack in its southern face at VS 5a with easier lines to its left and right . The longerand much steeper eastern face has a goodunrelenting E1 5b up the central crack and two E2s directly up the wall to the right .
