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contactlink terry@midwalesclimbing.com
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Cae du: Andy Godbar on the direct start to Fat Slapper arete V6 ( Font 6c)
MOEL SIABOD NEW ROUTES Craig y Stimau at Dolwyddelan behind the Castle
Calum Muskett and Pete Robbins have been back to Craig Istimau on the sunny side of Siabod above the LLedr valley on April 14. Pete flashed the new Castle Wall at E7 6c and also succeeded on the very thin wall left of the central groove at E5 6c.Then CAlum added his CAl-Queda at E6 6a , the thin and committing line just right of Regression to The Mean . The great prow on Craig DDu remains unclimbed but probably not for long now that this strong team are active on the mountain .
Anyone interested in joining/starting a MIDWALES climbers' club can contact dansmonkeytroubles@hotmail.com
The recent midwalesBMC meet near Aberystwyth had a good response from a very keen collection of local activists and there is strong interest in at the very least getting a good base of climbers in the area connected , supported , enthused and informed .
NEW GUIDEBOOKS: The Climbers Club are exploring a new Moelwynnion guide and a new Midwales selected guide . The existing midwales guide will be updated on the Climbers Club with new routes , crags etc ( as on this website ) and the existing guide which is now out of print will be available as a download from the CC. Good phototopos are planned for the Moelwynnion with a modern slimmed down text ( no more " gain the ledge , then make delicate and intricate moves up left to a small niche above which a long reach brings a good hold a fraction closer ").We can all follow black lines on a photo .
There is some debate and doubt on the merits of a dedicated Moelwynnion guide as the area sits in nicely with Midwales climbing and it may be considered extravagent to have a selected Midwales guide and a new Moelwyn guide . The CC are keen for opinions regarding this .The Moelwyn guide will include Moel Siabod , parts of the LLedr valley and outlying areas such as Clogwyn Garw, CArreg y Foel Gron and Carreg y fran as well as the newly bolted area of Chwarae Manod and the revisted Sidings . There has also been a tremendous amount of new bouldering activity although local activists are keen on their own guide for this .
update MAY 2012
New route north face Cader Idris
Bipolar Complexity HVS 5a 30.3.12
1). 40m. Start 2m left of the groove of pitch 1 of Hyrib. Ascended the slab via cracks directly to the overhangs at 20m surmount these via a corner capped by an overhang left of a blank V in-cut. Continue up the crack above this in-cut to a junction with pitch 2 of Hyrib on the arete and belay where possible. 2). 32m. Follow Hyrib to the belay above pitch 4 before the route brakes left.3). 20m. Ascend the corner capped by and overhang directly above the belay. Traverse across right at the overhang and continue upwards to belay where possible.
New RHINOGAU crag PDF
SH 676214
HARLECH CLIMBING WALL : Climbing Wall now open at Harlech . More than 28 routes some with in situ topropes and a good if small and fierce bouldering wall . Less than 5 minutes walk from Harlech train station.
Newgale , Aberystwyth, Clarach and Borth bouldering :
See owen mcshane's excellent website that has planty of topos and videos of this section of the cambrian coast and its vast potential redclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/more-welsh-esoteric-venues.html
http://redclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/more-welsh-esoteric-venues.html
Cregennan lake pdf :
Update sports routes link
TOPO and VIDEO of BOULDERING at CLARACH (near Aberystwyth) here
http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=12636694&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"
Moel Y Gest Quarry Tremadog.Copy and paste the following for the far right slabs
http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=310&ngroup=2
Pennal ;all bolts stripped for the moment.
Plynlimon; great bouldering guide to this remote spot near Aberystwyth. Check the bouldering link above .
Dysynni Valley : Click on the link for an updated word file for the valley
( Bird Rock Valley )link
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 link
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