contactlink terry@midwalesclimbing.com

 uPDATED December    2009 

Sport Routes 2010: we have put in a bid for rebolting of CLARACH via the north wales bolt fund and the BMC Cymru :

:Moel Y Gest Quarry  Porthmadog

To date Martin Crook and I have added 6 new bolted lines to this amazing quarry on the northern edge of Meirionnydd: from left to right these are " Dr Faustus" 7a on the right edge of the main quarry , " Tantric Skull Feeder " 6c/7a up the back wall of the smaller penultimate quarry, " Intersex Olympics " 6b/6c and " Flaskdance " 6a+  are the two lines up the west facing slab in the final quarry while on the extreme right side of the whole complex are two long slab climbs " Planet Gest " 6a and " Freak on a Leash " 6c/7a

Goi Ashmore has a good project awaiting him in the penultimate quarry.

CLARACH If you feel that this cliff is worth rebolting  it may help to email the BMC CYMRU with your hopefuly helpful opinion . The rock at Clarach appears to have survived the last 13 years and the routes still look fantastic : The bolts are understandably rusting and the crag would be excellent with marine grade stainless steel resin ring bolts to a double bolt lower off : the plan would be to hopfully extend the routes into the rock bands above . From left to right they are 7a , 7a , 6c+ , 6c , 6a .

SUNBEACH at Llwyngwril / Fairbourne

For all the new bolted routes and updated grade info including 2 new trad routes added 28 december 2009 : see sunbeach link above .

PENNAL  IMPORTANT NOTE : PENNAL QUARRY IS COMPLETELY OUT OF BOUNDS UNTIL ACCESS CAN BE NEGOTIATED.

To date 9 bolted routes from 6a+ to 7b+ and one project ( so close ...)

The land owner has been very patient to date but as he points out public liability is a big issue and this must be clarified before anyone accesses the quarry : elfyn Jones the new all -wales BMC access officer has listed this as a priority ( one of  many ) so hopefully by the spring this will be sorted . Anyone who tries to approach the quarry will almost certainly create a complete and permanent ban.

Cae du : Tim Banton has added a new V7 at Cae du : the left hand start to Cae Du Crack : see pics in bouldering section.

The steep arete in the back of the bay just north of the cave has been completed on its left side at V7 ( the wall up to the big pocket).

 Mark Allen waltzed up  the arte direct  on sight and thought V5 from the bedrock start : the first move involves a very high pinch and a fierce pull using a foothold that is sloping away .

Even better bouldering is being developed nearby and will be published here in the Spring 2010

.Plynlimon new bouldering routes 2009 . see under plynlimon

Rhinogau:    AN UPDATE OF NEW ROUTES 2002 TO 2009 IS NOW AVAILABLE : SEE THE RHINOGAU PAGE

.

Dysynni Valley ( Bird Rock Valley )

This beautiful valley  has more to offer than the  40 meter routes on the Bastion on Bird Rock .

There are now seven new craglets on the hillsides  mostly on the sunny northern side of the valley.The numerous routes range form Difficult to E4, the longest being 15 metrs . On the slopes of the hills opposite Bird Rock are some small  outcrops  that all face south  and are protected from northerly winds .

Llanllwyda  campsite .

Behind this site there are 2 crags , one near the summit of the hill and the other just down and right above the forest. The right hand crag has an upper and a lower section . At present the lower section has  one  12 meter HVS up the obvious groove but the bulging impressive wall just left is unclimbed .

 The main upper section   has a thrilling short crack in its southern face at VS 5a with easier lines to its left and right . The longer  and much steeper eastern face has a good  unrelenting E1 5b up the central crack and two E2s directly up the wall to the right .

.