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 Aoife Taylor on the long summer on cae du the west Wales coast

Aoife Taylor enjoying the long summer of 2018 on Cae du the west wales coast


Aberystwyth: bouldering in the town has always been on the sae walls or in nearby very tioday Clarach BAy ( see the New Central Wales Guidebook 2018 )

IN 2018 some hard new boulder problems were added to the north beach of Aberystwyth , mainly the non tidal very low roof which has Fluffy Sheep in red graffiti clearly sprayed above the chalked up holds . Although extremely short with few holds ,an ingenious pair of climbers Alex and Mat Peacey have done numerous poblems at around 7A including a lie down start to get the best out of the small roof ~: very impressive videos on Instagram under
cragnorthshore.

Rhinog 2018: newroutes including an E7/8: see Rhinog link above 

The wonderful Moelwyn mountains above Blaenau continue to provide tons of unexplored rock .2018

September 2018~~New sport venue in Blaenau: Badychain is the wall visible from TAn y Grisiau main stree , and faces south acroiss the railway line : a short walk through a tunnel below the track drops you at the foot of the wall where ther are now approx 30 sport routes ( several of which are still projects )

Here is a link to an interview with Martin Crook filmed by Steve Peake June 2018 

NEW CLIMBING GUIDE TO CENTRAL WALES JUNE 2018:  the new Central Wales guidebook has just been published and contains all you need to know about this previously undocumented area between Machynlleth and Pembroke . The area has seen extensive development of bouldering , sea cliff climbing , bolted quarry routes and long pitches on remote mountain crags  . It is incredibly well researched and documented with a great history and maps that even I can follow . Plenty of action pictures giving an idea of scale and rock quality and all very inspiring : the two main authors DAve Wuilliams and Doug Kerr have explored a huge area of central wales along with a small band of devotees whoe energy and enthusiasm spill over in each page . Highly recommended !.





June  2018 UPDATE 
New problems continue to be added in the boulder lands between Blaenau and Dolgellau: Martin Crook first ascent Pump Station Zebra 7A+  in the Moelwyn 2018, then added the ultralow traverse at 7B

More problems added in the Moelwyn boulder fields over JAnuary to June y 2018 mainly 
New areas opned up in the Rhinog also 

Another new boulder zone by LLanuchlyn and another near Bala 

ARENNIG: SUMMER 2018: finally the boulders on the extensive scree slopes are being  explored and bouldwer problems from 5B to 7B added .






The wild area between Blaenau and Bala continues to yield excellent boulder problems in September  2018

Another new 7A+ in Midwales July 9 2017 see video here Game of Hones 7A+


Tony Loxton repeating another new Midwales boulder problem July 10 2017



New videos added 1.7.2017 on the bouldering page 

Another new problem on a new boulder 5 july here



LLWYNGWRIL SEA CLIFFS HAVE BEEN EXPLORED MORE EXTENSIVELY IN November 2016 AMD MANY NEW BOULDER PROBLEMS ADDED alongside two excellent 7A traverses
follow the LLwyngwril link above for some new videos of the beach bouldering . Topo now added November  6 2016 on the LLwyngwril page link above 


2016: THE BALA BOULDER DRAFT TOPO SPRING 2016 . Click on the Bala link above for topo and several video links to Mike on his new 8A Black Sapphire

rhinog august 2017, martin crook on another 7A problem


 

Autumn 2017: Martin Crook blazing a new trail on a Rhinog stone August 2017: Transmitting Turbo 7A



2015 AUGUST 7   NEW : TOPO GUIDE TO CRAIG GOCH ON THE MIGNEINT ABOVE LLAN FFESTINIOG : SEE MOELWYNNION SECTION


2015 TOPOS FOR BLAENAU FFESTINIOG AND SUNBEACH AT LLWYNGWRIL  AT SPORT ROUTES LINK ABOVE


Mike has a short video of his 8a route in The Moelwyn
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_1d8JIp_u8

 contact

terry@midwalesclimbing.com 


or

midwalesclimbing@btinternet.com


MIDWALES
n



Craig y Stimau at Dolwyddelan behind the Castle by Moel Siabod 2012
Calum Muskett and Pete Robbins have been back to Craig Istimau on the sunny side of Siabod above the LLedr valley on April 14. Pete flashed the new Castle Wall at E7 6c and also succeeded on the very thin wall left of the central groove at E5 6c.Then CAlum added his CAl-Queda at E6 6a , the thin and committing line just right of Regression to The Mean . The great prow on Craig DDu remains unclimbed but probably not for long now that this strong team are active on the mountain .Small topo here

New Guidebooks : Two new guides in preparation . One is a Moelwyn/Moel Siabod  and the second is a RHINOG new routes guide. Both will include many new crags as well as new routes on previously documented crags .
Photographs of crags are needed so we can update the photo topos: any pics of the Moelwyn/Siabod crags would be really helpful .The new midwales guidebook needs photos of many crags : anyone who feels they can help I can send them the list of crags that to date have photos and those that need photos ....any help much appreciated .
It may be a couple of more years before publication so planty of time for feedback on existing crags , routes etc

Cregennan lake video : Mike Allday on Luminox V7minimum

 Update MARCH 2015  new topos for CAE DU May 2015.

New RHINOGAU crag PDF
SH 676214
Newgale , Aberystwyth, Clarach and Borth bouldering :

CLARACH BOULDERING

Cregennan lake pdf

Update sports routes  link

Moel Y Gest Quarry Tremadog.Copy and paste the following for the far right slabs
http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=310&ngroup=2 


 

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kaylynn from bangor : sunshine on cae du august08link

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_1d8JIp_u8

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_1d8JIp_u8

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